The short answer
Good ground preparation is what makes a turf lawn root and last, and it matters more than the grade of turf you buy. In short: clear the old lawn and weeds, dig or rotovate the soil to about 20–25cm to relieve compaction, work in organic matter and bring the topsoil up to at least 100mm (150mm is better), then rake the surface level and firm it by treading before laying. The aim is a fine, firm, level bed with no air pockets, so the turf roots make contact and knit in quickly. Turf should ideally be laid within 24 hours of delivery onto prepared ground and watered in straight away. Skipping or rushing the preparation is the most common reason a new lawn patches out within a season.
Preparation is the part most worth getting right — turf laid on lumpy, compacted or thin soil roots poorly however good the turf is. These are the steps a competent specialist follows, and what to look for in a quote.
The prep steps
- 1. Clearremove old grass & weeds
- 2. Rotovatedig to ~20–25cm depth
- 3. Topsoilbuild to 100–150mm
- 4. Level & firmrake then tread
- 5. Laywithin ~24h, water in
The preparation steps
- Clear the ground: strip the existing lawn and remove weeds, stones and debris — a turf cutter speeds up larger areas.
- Rotovate: dig or rotovate to about 20–25cm to break up compaction, ideally twice and at right angles for an even tilth.
- Add topsoil & organic matter: work in well-rotted compost and bring the topsoil to a minimum of 100mm (150mm preferred) for the roots.
- Level and firm: rake to a smooth, even level, then tread the whole area on your heels to remove air pockets and firm the bed.
- Lay promptly: butt the rolls tightly with staggered joints, ideally within 24 hours of delivery, then water in thoroughly.
| Step | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Clear | stops old weeds growing back through |
| Rotovate | relieves compaction so roots penetrate |
| Topsoil 100–150mm | depth the roots establish into |
| Level & firm | no air pockets = even, knitted lawn |
General method for guidance; your soil may need more or less work. Source: RHS lawns-from-turf guidance.
Why preparation beats turf grade
It is tempting to spend on premium turf and save on the ground work, but it should be the other way round. Soil preparation is just as important for turf as it is for seed, and even the best turf will thin, lift or patch if it is laid on compacted, uneven or shallow soil that the roots cannot get into. A firm, level, well-drained bed with enough topsoil is what lets any decent turf establish into a dense lawn — which is why a good specialist spends most of the job on the ground, not the rolls.
Want the ground done properly?
We'll match you with a vetted turfing or landscaping specialist who assesses your soil and quotes the ground preparation and topsoil your garden needs, set out clearly alongside the turf.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should topsoil be for turf?
Aim for a minimum of 100mm of good topsoil for the roots to establish into, with 150mm preferred. The ground should be rotovated to about 20–25cm first to relieve compaction before the topsoil is levelled and firmed.
Do you have to rotovate before laying turf?
On compacted or previously paved ground, yes — rotovating to about 20–25cm breaks up compaction so roots can penetrate. On already loose, weed-free soil a thorough fork-over and rake may be enough, but firming and levelling are always needed.
Why does ground preparation matter more than the turf?
Because turf only establishes as well as the bed it is laid on. Even premium turf thins and patches on compacted, uneven or shallow soil, while ordinary turf thrives on a firm, level, well-prepared bed with enough topsoil.
Sources & further reading
Figures on this page are typical UK ranges drawn from published sources and depend on your specific garden. They are guidance, not a quotation.